2023 proved to be an amazing year for Italian wines: it was incredibly hard to choose only 100, but here are the best of the best.
2023 proved to be an amazing year for Italian wines. The aristocratic 2019 Barolos were released and were a throwback to the days of yore, showcasing austere, classic wines with serious aging potential while the delicious 2020 Barbarescos showed great fruit and almost immediate appeal. My anteprima tasting of the fantastic 2019 Brunellos, to be released in early 2020, offered up many extraordinary wines that show class and energy.
I also tried many other exemplary wines from across the boot and the islands, including stunning whites from Friuli Venezia Giulia, Alto Adige, Sicily, Sardinia and Orvieto in Umbria as well excellent reds from up and down the Peninsula, with a shout out to two wonderful 2020 offerings from Bolgheri. Sparkling wines are also thriving in Italy, especially Metodo Classicos in Alta Langa, Franciacorta and Sicily as well as an unrivaled Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. One lovely Etna Rosato also made the cut as did two delicious dessert wines.
With so many amazing wines it was incredibly hard to choose only 100, but here are the best of the best.
Enjoy!
#1 of 2023
100 Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2019 Monvigliero Barolo
#2 of 2023
100 Monteraponi 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
#3 of 2023
100 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2019 Pianrosso Brunello di Montalcino
Boasting great depth and extreme elegance, the drop-dead gorgeous Ciacci Piccolomini Pianrosso delivers crushed raspberry, succulent Morello cherry, star anise and crushed mint flavors while aromas of eucalyptus, wild rose, new leather and forest floor continuously lift out of the glass. It’s a smooth, stunning wine, with taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity that lend great aging potential and energy. Absolutely stunning. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe September 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
#4 of 2023
100 Conti Costanti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino
#5 of 2023
100 Figli Luigi Oddero 2016 Vignarionda Barolo
#6 of 2023
100 L’Aietta 2019 Alberelli Brunello di Montalcino
#7 of 2023
100 Paolo Scavino 2019 Bric del Fiasc Barolo
#8 of 2023
100 Le Chiuse 2019 Brunello di Montalcino
#9 of 2023
99 Gianni Brunelli 2019 Brunello di Montalcino
#10 of 2023
99 Giuseppe Cortese 2016 Rabajà Riserva Barbaresco
A riveting, age-worthy Brunello with class, energy and longevity.
On the 30th of August, Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona held its first vertical of the firm’s iconic Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso exclusively for kerinokeefe.com, from 1993 to the soon-to-be-released 2019. It was a moving, memorable tasting and showed the dedication of the Bianchini family and the great vocation of the village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate.
I was extremely impressed by the wines. Despite the different vintages, including the last two decades of challenging years, the product of climate change, the estate’s classically crafted Brunellos all showed a family resemblance. They have body, structure and elegance that beautifully encapsulate the gentle hand of Paolo Bianchini and since 2015 also his son Alex, and their desire to produce terroir-driven Brunellos with personality, flair and finesse.
Read on to see how three decades of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Monatalcino Pianrosso performed.
The Estate
Situated on the Southeastern slope of Montalcino near the medieval hamlet of Castelnuovo dell’Abate and the 11th century Abbey of Sant’Antimo, in one of the most beautiful corners of Montalcino, the Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona estate makes classically crafted, mesmerizing Brunellos.
The property extends over 220ha including nearly 60ha of vineyards, 43 of which are dedicated to Sangiovese. Set in an open valley among rolling vine-covered hills and olives groves, it also boasts a breathtaking view of Mont Amiata. Vineyards here benefit from the southwest exposures, constant breezes and a mild micro-climate.
Run by brother and sister team Paolo and Lucia Bianchini, the firm has long made some of my top scoring wines from the denomination. Paolo, who follows the vineyards and the cellars and Lucia, who runs the administrative side of the company, are joined by Paolo’s children Alex and Ester. Alex works with Paolo on the production side and in the vineyards while Ester is in charge of public relations and marketing.
The firm, which has been certified organic in the vineyards starting with the 2021 vintage, makes three Brunellos: the Annata, the single-vineyard Pianrosso and the Vigna di Pianrosso Riserva Santa Caterina d’Oro made exclusively in outstanding vintages. It also makes two Rosso di Montalcino, the Annata and Rossofonte, the denomination’s first single-vineyard Rosso di Montalcino. It also makes three Toscana IGTs.
Pianrosso
If the estate’s fantastic Brunello Annata or straight Brunello is its calling card, the consistently captivating Pianrosso is Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona’s most representative wine thanks to its great depth and concentration tempered by finesse. Paolo and Lucia’s late father Giuseppe, who inherited the estate in 1985 from the Countess Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona and had long been her estate manager, immediately realized the exceptional quality of the grapes from the Pianrosso vineyard. In 1990 he decided to vinify and bottle the site’s grapes apart, making it one of the first single-vineyard Brunellos in the denomination.
Located 240-360m above sea level, soils in the 11.69ha Pianrosso vineyard hail from the Eocene epoch and consist predominately of marls and some flaky schist with iron-rich red soils beneath.
Pianrosso is fermented in steel, with fermentation and maceration lasting on average 35 days. It’s then aged for three years in Slavonian casks, one year more than the straight Brunello, followed by at least eight months of bottle age before release. The results are a riveting, age-worthy Brunello with class, energy and longevity.
On average, the firm makes about 40,000 bottles of Brunello Pianrosso annually. To ensure only top quality, the firm didn’t make it in 2002, 2005, 2009, 2011 and 2014.
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 1993 – 2019:
93 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 1993
Garnet with brick reflections, the thirty-year old Pianrosso has aged gracefully. It has classic aromas of aged Brunello, including forest floor, carob, tar, eucalyptus and flint. The palate is even more expressive, with dried cherry, tart pomegranate, orange zest, salty mineral and the same carob note as the nose. It has silky, buffed tannins and surprising freshness. Incredible for 30. Drink. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
90 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 1995
Though younger, the 1995 Pianrosso appears older than the 1993, showing notes of marsala, tar, zabaglione, grilled herb and menthol before a salty finish. While at its limit and definitely time to drink, it’s still sound at age twenty-eight. Drink. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
96 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 1996
The 1996 Pianrosso is radiant, with bright acidity that lifts dried cherry, hazelnut, flinty mineral, blood orange and tar notes. It’s also incredibly smooth, with polished tannins. Still youthful with years to go. A fabulous showing. Drink through 2031. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
94 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 1997
Aromas of underbrush, dried cherry and flinty mineral carry over to the smooth, enveloping palate along with prune, dried mint and a dollop of vanilla. Burnished tannins provide supple support and it’s still surprisingly fresh. Drink. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
97 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 1999
The 1999 Pianrosso is utterly delicious, boasting a backbone of velvety tannins that seamlessly support ripe Morello cherry, baking spice, licorice and tobacco. It’s elegant and well balanced with the complexity of an aged wine but it’s also vibrant, smooth and intense. A stellar showing from an excellent vintage. Drink through 2034. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
92 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2000
From a hot vintage, this has aromas and flavors of leather, prune, dried cherry, tar and camphor. It’s rather evolved but still offers a few more years of drinking pleasure. Best through 2025. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
98 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2001
Showing much younger than the 2000, the 2001 Pianrosso is exceptionally fragrant, with enticing scents of baking spice, pressed rose petal, menthol and new leather. It’s also delicious, delivering dried cherry, licorice, tobacco and nutmeg wrapped up in smooth, tightly-woven tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it bright and balanced. Drink through 2036 Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
95 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2003
This was the surprise of the vertical. Nothing cooked or tired about this full-bodied beauty despite the scorching vintage that heralded the beginning of climate change. It’s velvety, enveloping and shockingly fresh, with sensations of ripe cherry, pipe tobacco, flint and forest floor as well as licorice, orange zest and hints of carob. Drink through 2028. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
95 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2004
The 2004 Pianrosso wows with aromas of baked plum, violet, pine forest and underbrush. Rich and juicy, the palate shows a restrained elegance, offering black cherry, carob, dried mint and saline mineral notes set against a backdrop of smooth but still taut tannins. Fresh acidity keeps lifted. Drink through 2029. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
95 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2006
Aromas of forest floor, star anise and camphor carry through to the full-bodied palate along with dried cherry, licorice and tobacco. Fresh acidity and tightly-woven, close-grained tannins provide firm support. Still taut and tense. Drink through 2031. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
92 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2007
From another extremely hot, dry vintage, this opens with aromas recalling Mediterranean scrub, crushed mint, red currant and prune. Full-bodied and concentrated, the palate features dried cherry, carob, licorice and the same prune note as the nose. It’s reached is peak and should be enjoyed soon to capture the balance of fruit, freshness and complexity. Drink. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
94 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2008
All about elegance, the 2008 Pianrosso is fragrant, with floral aromas of violet and pressed rose that mingle with new leather and camphor. On the full-bodied palate, refined tannins accompany dried cherry, blood orange, baking spice and licorice before a saline close. It’s already accessible but will age well for several years or more. Drink through 2033. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
95 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2010
This is just beautiful, with aromas of forest floor, violet and perfumed berry. On the full-bodied palate, enveloping, velvety tannins wrap around dried cherry, licorice, hazelnut and balsamic notes of menthol. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink through 2030. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
95 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2012
Aromas recalling red berry, forest floor, camphor and dog rose come to the forefront on the 2012 Pianrosso. Full-bodied and firm, the delicious, velvety palate shows spiced cranberry, blood orange and licorice before closing on a note of almond liqueur. Drink through 2032. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
98 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2013
Showing great elegance and structure, the dazzling 2013 Pianrosso has aromas of violet, tilled earth, crushed berry, truffle and spice. Delicious and full-bodied, the palate features succulent black cherry, raspberry compote and tobacco before finishing on a soothing licorice note. Tightly woven, polished tannins and bright acidity keep it well balanced. It’s aging beautifully. Drink through 2033. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
98 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2015
The compelling 2015 Pianrosso opens with classic aromas of new leather, underbrush, baking spice and mint. On the full-bodied, elegantly structured palate, enveloping, velvety tannins accompany dried cherry, raspberry compote, spiced cranberry, truffle and vanilla before a pipe tobacco close. Fresh acidity provides excellent balance. What a beauty. Drink 2025–2038.
98 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2016
Delicious, full-bodied and boasting a weightless finesse, the 2016 Pianrosso is absolutely gorgeous, starting with its enticing aromas of red berry, tobacco, dog rose and eucalyptus. Smooth, concentrated and elegant, the palate delivers crushed raspberries, liquor-soaked cherries, blood oranges and licorice framed in tightly-woven, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2025–2036. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
95 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2017
Aromas of graphite and ripe dark-skinned berry mingle with new leather and eucalyptus. On the polished, savory palate, taut, refined tannins accompany ripe raspberry, prune, dried cherry and hints of almond liqueur. Drink through 2032. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
98 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2018
The impressive 2018 Pianrosso opens with classic aromas of new leather, underbrush, baking spice and mint. On the full-bodied, elegantly structured palate, enveloping, velvety tannins accompany dried cherry, raspberry compote, spiced cranberry, truffle and vanilla before a pipe tobacco close. Fresh acidity provides excellent balance. Drink 2025–2038. A superb wine. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
100 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2019
Boasting great depth and extreme elegance, the drop-dead gorgeous Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Pianrosso delivers crushed raspberry, succulent Morello cherry, star anise and crushed mint flavors while aromas of eucalyptus, wild rose, new leather and forest floor continuously lift out of the glass. It’s a smooth, stunning wine, with taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity that lend great aging potential and energy. Absolutely stunning. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe October 2023 ©kerinokeefe.com
After tasting almost 170 2018 Brunello di Montalcino, here’s everything you need to know about the vintage and the wines.
For Brunello fans who love fragrant wines with energy, elegance and balance, you are going to love the soon-to-be-released 2018s. I haven’t been this excited by a recent vintage since the classic 2013s were released five years ago. And the best part is that thanks to improvements in vineyard management and cellar practices, many of the 2018s are already approachable but the best also promise years of pleasure and evolution.
Unlike the many dry, scalding vintages of the 21st century – think 2003, 2007, 2011, 2015, 2017, 2021 and 2022 – 2018 was cooler and wetter. In other words, a blast from the past in terms of weather in the denomination. As Susanna Padelletti, who owns the historic family firm of the same name along with her son and daughter puts it, “2018 was the last year Montalcino had a continental climate.” Made from vineyards located in the northern part of the denomination, Padelletti’s 2018 is outstanding.
Weather
Coming on the heels of the extremely dry and scorching 2017, 2018 benefitted from average rainfall and snow in the winter. Higher than average temperatures lasted until late February, when there was a sharp dip in temperatures and snow throughout the denomination. This was followed by light snow, rain and minimum temperatures below 0°C and maximum 15°C in March. Sporadic rain and cool temperatures continued in April during bud break before surging suddenly in the middle of the month.
May was defined by frequent, abundant precipitation but high temperatures encouraged excellent vegetative development, with flowering occurring at the end of the month. By this time, the water reserves accumulated in the soils enabled the vines to stand up to the high but not excessive temperatures in June and July. August was marked by intermittent rain and normal temperatures that fell sharply at the end of the month, impacting grape maturation. The first half of September saw some rainy days the first week followed by good weather and maximum temperatures of 30°C that helped the ripening process. However, heavy rain and lower temperatures of around 20°C in the second half of the month drove some producers to anticipate the harvest.
Harvest
When a producer harvested in 2018 was crucial.
“We started harvesting on September 27 and finished on October 6,” says Francesco Ripaccioli, who owns and runs the family-owned Canalicchio di Sopra estate along with his brother Marco and sister Simonetta. “Here in the north, where clay soils can retain water, we particularly benefitted from the Tramontana, the northern wind that dried the grapes and concentrated acidity and polyphenols before the harvest.”
Besides harvesting at the right moment, the riskiest decision for all winemakers, the Ripacciolis also performed a pre-harvest to eliminate unripe grapes. The results are gorgeous, beautifully balanced, vibrant and elegant wines, including my only 100-point rating for the vintage.
Ripaccioli compares the 2018 vintage to the 2008, an overall undervalued vintage that was cooler and fresher than the big, bombastic 2007s. While the brawny 2007 Brunellos garnered all the attention and overshadowed the more elegant and vibrant 2008s, in general the 2007s have not held up over the years. The best 2008s on the other hand are showing beautifully now , like Canalicchio di Sopra’s 2008 that I tried in late November and that I scored highly when it was released ten years ago (read my report on 2008 Brunello).
While the 2008s were a mixed bag of highs and lows, the overall quality across the board for the 2018s is extremely high, demonstrating the know-how and experience of the producers has increased in the last decade.
While some producers say 2018 was a tough year, Alessandro Mori, owner and winemaker of Il Marroneto along with his son Jacopo, isn’t having it. “I disagree with producers who say 2018 was a difficult vintage. Because every vintage, for one reason or another is difficult. We’re growers and producers, it’s part of our job to know how to handle whatever Mother Nature hands us.” The Moris nailed it, and their dazzling 2018s are stellar.
Transparency and Terroir
Luminous and radiant, the 2018s beautifully reflect their individual terroirs, offering a transparency that the burly, warm 2017s and 2015s lack. With the exception of the top 25 or so producers, even many of the 2016 Brunellos, from what in terms of climate was a far superior vintage to 2018, don’t reflect their unique terroirs to the extent that the 2018s do across the denomination.
The 2018s have fresher acidity than recent vintages, more energy and fragrance, and with very few exceptions, lower alcohol levels compared to the last three vintages. The also have more refined tannins, all of which allows their different growing zones to shine through.
Single Vineyards on the Rise
More and more producers are now producing single vineyard offerings and the 2018 beautifully interpreted the differences. Some of my top-scoring Brunellos hailed from grapes on grown on Montosoli, including Canalicchio Vigna Montosoli, Baricci, and Le Ragnaie Casanova Montosoli. Further south, Banfi’s Vigna Marrucheto performed beautifully, combining power and finesse.
The 2018s also allowed the many different subzones to shine through as a whole. For example, many of my highest-scoring wines, including Le Chiuse, Il Marroneto and Fuligni, hailed from vineyards in the classic area just north of Montalcino, where the area’s legendary and celebrated elegance shines through with pristine clarity. Immediately south of Montalcino, in the area known as Podernovone, Gianni Brunelli, San Polino and San Polo excelled while most producers in Castelnuovo dell’Abate produced excellent wines overall, including Mastrojanni and Poggio di Sotto.
As in all denominations including Barolo for example, not all single vineyard or cru offerings translate into superior quality. Today, more than the vineyard, subzone or vintage, the best guarantee to investing in a great Brunello is the name and reputation of the producer.
Cellaring
Most of the 2008s are going to be drinking beautifully right out of the gate, thanks to their refined tannins. But don’t let this fool you: these are not lightweights. While they don’t have the massive structures that have become common in Brunello recently, many are full-bodied while others are medium-bodied, and the best have the vibrancy and intensity to age well until 15-20 years after the harvest, while some will age even longer.
Other new releases
Besides the 2018s, the 2017 Riservas are also being released shortly. While tasting notes will be uploaded soon, suffice to say that 2017 overall was not a year for Riservas. Most of the wines were monolithic and dominated by alcohol.
I also tried two just released 2016 Brunellos from Paradiso di Manfredi and Fonterenza that release their wines later than other producers. They both showed very well.
I also tried one of the most exciting wines of my tasting last week in Montalcino: Le Chiuse 2013 Brunello Riserva Diecianni. As some readers may recall, I gave the firm’s 2013 Brunello 100 points when it was released five years ago. The 2013 Riserva, made from the oldest vines and then aged ten years before release almost five of which in bottle, is absolutely magnificent. Ready to try now, it will also age for decades, as only the finest Brunellos can. 100 points.
98 Ciacci Piccolomini 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso
Camphor, forest floor, wild berry and dark spice aromas lead the way. Full-bodied and supremely elegant, the delicious palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and tobacco framed in tightly woven, velvety tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and lifted. Drink 2025–2038. 14.5% abv. Kerin O’Keefe November 2022 ©kerinokeefe.com
97 Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino
Forest berry, spice, hay and menthol aromas mingle with whiffs of new leather on this stunning, fragrant Brunello. A top-scorer vintage after vintage, the 2018 combines elegance and a full body, delivering dried cherry, blood orange, licorice and ground clove alongside firm but refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it energized while a saline mineral note adds depth to the finish. Drink 2026–2038. 14.5% abv. Kerin O’Keefe November 2022 ©kerinokeefe.com
